Photography as hobby or career

Over on photo.net there is a good discussion of whether photography is a good way to make a living. The overwhelming response seems to be that it is an excellent hobby, but a very problematic career. It makes more sense to have a job to pay the bills; finance life, family, and photography; and allow you to treat the production of images as an artistic rather than a financial undertaking.

That coincides pretty neatly with my own intuitions about the matter. A few minutes on photo.net will turn up hundreds of top-notch photos. If the people making them are mostly warning of the difficulties of photography as a profession, it seems likely to be good advice.

Colour temperature and photography

Eye exams on Somerset

One way in which colours are categorized is according to the temperatures at which materials emit them, when heated in a vacuum. The phenomenon of warm things emitting light can be observed readily: for instance, when a bar of iron is heated from red, to orange, to yellow, to white. Some of the key colours photographically are those akin to the light of the sun around noon (about 5500° Kelvin) and the light from incandescent bulbs (about 3300° K). Just as with the heated iron bar, the hotter the light source, the ‘cooler’ the temperature appears: ranging from reds and oranges at low temperatures up to greens and blues. This can be a bit confusing, since the colours artists describe as ‘warm’ are actually produced by low temperatures, and vice versa.

Virtually all digital cameras have the ability to adapt to different colour temperatures. This is important because our eyes generally make the correction automatically. Looking at a scene under fluorescent lights, it doesn’t seem as green to us as it really is – and will appear on film or an uncalibrated digital sensor. Exactly how you set the white balance on your camera varies by model and manufacturer, but it is worth checking the manual over.

In addition to being used to correct for the dominant type of lighting in a scene, colour balance can be set so as to create a desired look that may not have been present in the original scene. For example, intentionally using the white balance for warm light (low temperature) in a scene with cool light (high temperature) exaggerates the cool light in the scene. As a result, you get a very cool looking photo like this one. By contrast, intentionally using the white balance for cool light (high temperature) in a scene that already has fairly warm light will exaggerate the warm light, as with this photo.

For users of Canon cameras, here is an easy way to try this out:

  • First, head out on a cold winter’s day and find a wintery looking scene.
  • Then, go into the white balance setting for your camera. If you have a point and shoot camera, this is normally done by setting the control dial on your camera to ‘P,’ then pressing the ‘Func. Set’ button in the middle of the wheel on the back. Scroll down once and you should be in the white balance menu. Press the ‘right’ button until you have ‘Tungsten’ selected.
  • If you have a digital SLR, there is usually a dedicated white balance button on the back, labelled ‘WB.’
  • Shoot the winter scene with that setting, and you will get a cool blue looking result.
  • Secondly, try shooting a warmish scene (such as one taken around sunset outside) with the camera set to ‘Cloudy.’ That will make it look even warmer, which is sometimes attractive.

When you choose a colour balance setting on your digital camera, you are telling it how to process the raw data from the sensor into a JPG image. Since the raw data isn’t normally retained, this is an irreversible choice (though it is possible to approximate a white balance change using software like Photoshop). For cameras capable of recording the data from the sensor as a RAW file, you will be able to select whatever white balance you like after the photo has been taken. Thanks to CHDK, a great many Canon cameras (including inexpensive point and shoot models) can be given this capability.

Incidentally, the matter of what wavelength of light is emitted by objects of different temperatures is a key part of the physics of climate change. One neat thing about science is the way you often run into aspects of one field that are relevant somewhere very different.

Location data and photography

Dylan and Dusty

Before long, I expect that many cameras will have built-in GPS receivers and the option to automatically tag every photo with the geographic coordinates of the place where it was taken. That will allow for some neat new kinds of displays: from personal photo maps that show the results of a single person’s travels to composites of the photos a great many people have taken of the same place.

For those who would be interested in such things, but don’t yet have equipment that can locate itself, it seems like there could be a simple workaround. These days, low-cost GPS tracking devices are very affordable. All you need is a camera and a tracker with coordinated clocks. Then, you carry the tracker with you when you take photos. After you upload them to a computer, you can run software to automatically attach location data from the tracking system to the photos. Given the increasing number of cell phones with GPS capability, they might be the ideal devices to provide such locational data. You could even configure one to automatically upload a track of your movements to a web service which would then match up that information with photos you upload later.

One snag would be photos taken in areas where GPS doesn’t work, such as on the subway. To deal with that, users could be presented with a few choices. The coordinates from the closest point in time where data is available could be used, a very general coordinate for the city or region in question could be substituted, or such photos could simply be left untagged.

No doubt, people could dream up some very clever ways of using this kind of data, especially once a lot of it was online. You could, for instance, produce collages of how a particular area looked over time. A mountain valley could be presented from the perspectives of everyone from those hosting afternoon picnics to those undertaking technical climbs of the peaks, with spring and summer photos contrasted against snowy winter shots. Groups of friends could also watch their trails of photos diverge and overlap, as they move around the world.

All told, it could be a very interesting experiment in communal memory.

Learning about photographic flashes

Want to learn how to use an external flash with your SLR camera system? Strobist has an useful ‘Lighting 101‘ series of articles. I have also had Light: Science and Magic by Steven Biver et al. strongly recommended to me.

Since I will be getting my hands on a 430EX II flash on Wednesday, doing a bit of pre-reading seemed sensible. The first photos I produce using it should appear here sometime after I return to Ottawa on the 28th.

Strangers and street photography

I have never been fond of photographing strangers, and my natural reticence has been enhanced as a result of a few people who responded badly. As a consequence, my photos generally include either friends, people who aren’t prominent in the image, or nobody at all. I make a bit of an exception for situations where people are clearly making a display of themselves (in costume, for instance), but generally avoid pointing my lenses at people I don’t know, even in public.

While I recognize the sense of this approach, it does make me feel as though my photos lack something that most street photographers manage to capture: specifically, the various moments that make up city life. Should I try to be bolder and produce some images like those in the photo.net ‘Street Photography’ tutorial?

Power, oversight, and photography

As this disturbing alleged situation demonstrates, you may be ordered at some point to delete photographic or videographic evidence of an event without appropriate justification.

While there may be situations in which security concerns are justifiably paramount, there are also many situations in which those who have authority simply wish to avoid facing any accountability for their actions. Given the conflict of interest involved for those law enforcement officers on the scene, it seems prudent to retain any photographic or videographic evidence you have produced, even if you are asked by them to delete it.

After all, any impartial evidence that exists can only help in any subsequent official proceedings. The absence of such evidence is likely to strengthen the bias of impartial adjudicators towards those with authority, as opposed to those who simply happened to be witnesses.

Prior relevant posts:

[18 December 2008] Zoom has posted an update about this matter.

Deleting images in iPhoto

Whoever designed the photo deletion interface in iPhoto rather botched the job. The system in both versions of iPhoto I have used (’08 and ’04) has been confusing and very easy to use incorrectly.

When you select a photo in an album and hit delete, it gets removed from only that album, not the photo library. This is sensible enough, though there should be an easier way to delete the image from both locations. What is much odder is that when you delete a photo from the library, it doesn’t go into the Mac OS trash. Instead, it goes into a custom iPhoto trash folder.

What is really unforgivable is that if you go into the trash folder, select an image, and hit delete, it actually gets returned to its original location. There have been plenty of occasions where I have gone through the photos from an entire trip (probably hundreds of images), removing the botched and boring ones. If you then hit the wrong key while looking at the trash folder, they all jump back to their original locations, and you need to repeat the whole selection process.

It would be far more sensible for iPhoto to behave like iTunes. When you delete a photo from the library, it should ask if you also want to delete it from your hard drive. Then, there is no need for an independent trash folder. Removed images would either get taken out of the iPhoto file management system but left in their original hard drive location, or they would be put into the general Mac OS trash. It should also be possible to delete images straight from smart folders. When a photo in such a folder is selected for deletion, it should automatically be moved to the Mac OS trash.

New tripod

For several years now, I have been wondering about the fate of the Manfrotto tripod that I purchased back near the very beginning of my photographic hobby. I remember the aluminum tripod and ball head costing more than my first SLR and lens: a Pentax MX Super with a manual 50mm lens. I left the tripod in a closet when I went to Oxford and haven’t seen it since, despite a fair bit of concerted searching during a couple of the periods when I was in Vancouver.

Due to a holiday promotion, I have bitten the bullet and picked up a new Manfrotto tripod. This one – a 725B Digi – is a bit smaller and lighter than my old one, through the overall design and construction is very similar. The two biggest things it lacks, in comparison to the one I hopefully still have in some obscure Vancouver corner, are (a) the ability to position the legs at any of three stable angles (due to push-in aluminum blocks) and (b) the option to invert the centre column for use very close to the ground. The biggest advantages are the somewhat smaller overall dimensions and lesser weight. Other differences include (a) a lever rather than a screw for tightening the centre column, (b) a different design for the lever that secures the ball head, and (c) four-segment legs rather than three-segment ones. The two models are different enough that I will not be annoyed if the old unit does turn up in the course of future rummaging.

Given the reality that I will be at work during most of the daylight hours between now and the spring, having a tripod on hand makes a lot of sense. It is also nice that this model is compatible with the tripod plates from the previous stabilizer, including those affixed to the bottom of my Elan 7N and Rebel G.

Lens selection survey

Fellow photographers: if you had the following collection of SLR bodies and lenses, which piece of glass would you aspire to next?

Bodies:

  • Canon Rebel G film SLR
  • Canon Elan 7N film SLR
  • Canon Rebel XS digital SLR

In practice, I expect to be using the Rebel XS far more than the film bodies, from this point on.

Lenses:

  • Canon 50mm f/1.8
  • Canon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 USM II
  • Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

Ideally, it should be useful for both full-frame and 1.6x factor, APS-C sized cameras. The APS-C equivalent focal lengths for those lenses are 80mm, 44.8-168mm, and 28.8-88mm. In general, I prefer the wide-angle look to the telephoto look, though I would be interested in anything that significantly expands the potential or usefulness of the SLRs above.